AERO KUFM Commentary Archives

KUFM Commentary

Heather Kahler

August 2005

 “Grown in Montana”

My interest in local food started as a young adult. My first job was making pies to sell at a roadside stand. Every day the gentleman who owned the orchard would bring in the fruit, and we would turn it into several dozen pies. People drove for hundreds of miles for one of our homemade pies, and we regularly sold out before we closed for the day. Several years later, I owned and operated a restaurant in Bozeman, where we promoted local foods by featuring them in menu items. Through this experience, I learned that building menus that feature locally grown ingredients is not only possible, but also challenging and rewarding. For example, I recently catered a wedding reception in Whitefish. I spent the day before the wedding driving from farm to farm picking up ingredients. After assembling and cooking a variety of ingredients, we served a dinner to over 100 people, and the dishes served featured 75% Montana grown and raised ingredients. Many of the local guests were amazed that such a variety came from so close by, and the out-of-state guests were impressed by the selection of locally raised ingredients. Considering the length of our growing season, Montana farmers and ranchers produce a great selection of products. My continued interest in working with local farmers and ranchers makes me feel it’s necessary for us to frequently discuss the issues of locally grown food and to collectively renew our commitment to supporting local farmers and ranchers.

There are social, economic, and environmental reasons for purchasing locally raised food. In the social context, buying from a local farmer or rancher connects us directly to our food. It seems people are more likely to care for their community when they feel connected. For farms that are nearby, you may consider taking a day trip to see how they raise their goods. When we have the opportunity to see our food being raised and meet the people who are raising it, we are able to make an educated purchasing decision. As you get to know farmers and ranchers in your area, they may ask you for feedback on flavors and varieties, and they may be able to give you cooking suggestions or recipes for unusual items they produce. When we directly exchange our grocery money with the person who raised our food, we create a relationship. The consumer and the grower provide sustenance directly to each other. I once had a party at my house and served a whole lamb, raised in Ennis. The woman who raised it was there, and she shared sheep stories and explaining the details of raising grass-fed sheep. To this day, over three years later, guests tell me this one of their favorite dinners because they learned about what they were eating and that because of this experience, they seek a local source when they want to eat lamb.

In the economic context, buying from a local farmer or rancher lets us invest directly in our communities. By the time various entities, are done with our paychecks, there is a pretty small portion left for us to spend as we see fit. I like to spend what remains where I can make the most difference. For me, it feels very rewarding to keep a greater percentage of my food budget within my community where my grocery money will be used to buy school supplies for a farmer’s child, pay a farmer’s utility bill, or invest in field equipment. My dollar doesn’t go as far when there are so many middle men that the people actually picking the crops and feeding the animals get a small fraction of what I spend. The more layers we remove from the equation, the farther our food dollars go and the more local economic impact we have.

From an environmental standpoint, Frequent Flyer miles are great for you but not for your food. When you purchase locally produced food, far fewer miles are put on trucks to get your food to you. In the past fifty years, as the distance our food traveled to reach us lengthened, food production goals shifted from flavor and nutritional value to consistent appearance and shelf life. What happened to tomatoes that tasted like a warm summer day, and apples that tasted crisp and fresh and smelled of an autumn orchard? They may still be available at your local farmers’ market. Or maybe if apples don’t grow well in your area, you will rediscover the gift of fresh cherries or tart rhubarb.

While the benefits of purchasing local food are convincing, most of us can’t modify our diets to include exclusively locally raised food. However, there are small steps we can make and easy substitutions we can look into. Find a farmers’ market near you and shop there regularly. You know that extra freezer you have in the garage? Fill it up with a half beef or a whole hog raised by the guy down the road. Next time you go to your grocery store look for foods labeled “ Montana grown.” If you don’t see any, ask a store employee if they carry any. If they don’t, consider finding a store that does and shop there. And, next time you see a roadside stand with fresh-picked anything, stop and buy. It’s bound to be fresh and flavorful, and you may make a new friend.

I’m Heather Kahler from Bozeman Montana for the Alternative Energy Resources Organization. AERO is a grassroots membership organization working to help create farm, food, energy and growth solutions for communities throughout Montana. AERO welcomes your comments and perspectives. For more information about our programs call us in Helena at 406-443-7272. If you want a great resource for locating local producers, ask for a copy of our Abundant Montana directory.